På vej tilbage til Lusaka for at mødes med Dulani og Nelia kørte jeg med en stor, moderne bus, hvor min nabo ved vinduespladsen havde 3 (skriver: T-R-E) børn på skødet, og jeg tog den fjerde på skødet. I 8½ time sad hun musestille yderst på mine knæ. De talte et andet sprog end nyanja, som jeg havde lært i Petauke (eller rettere: prøvet at lære), så vi kunne desværre ikke kommunikere, men hun smilede forsigtigt, da jeg gav hende en kuglepen som afskedsgave (Jeg kunne ikke lige finde på andet, der kunne vise, hvor kær jeg syntes hun var). Til højre ses de alle fem - selvfølgelig med hende som midtpunkt - nu spredt over to sæder.
On my way back to Luska to meet with Dulani and Nelia again, I was on a big, modern bus where my neighbour by the window had three (3) children on her lap and I took the fourth on my lap. For 8½ hours she sat as quietly as a mouse on the tip of my knee. They spoke a different language from Nyanja, which I had learnt in Petauke (or rather: tried to learn), so unfortunately we could not communicate, but the girl smiled timidly when I gave her a ballpoint pen as a farewell gift (I couldn't think of anything else to show my affection). Right: All five - and of course she is at the centre - now occupy my seat as well.
Klokke fem om morgenen tog Nelia, Dulani og jeg bussen ned til Livingstone nær grænsen til Zimbabwe (og tæt på Botswana og Namibia).
At 5 o'clock in the morning Nelia, Dulani and I took the bus down to Livingstone near the border with Zimbabwe (and close to Botswana and Namibia).
Det var en lang tur, og Nelia og hendes medpassager benyttede chancen til at få en lille lur i bussens behagelige sæder.
It was a long trip and Nelia and her next-seat neighbour grabbed the opportunity to catch a wink of sleep in the soft seat of the big coach..
Dulani med The Post,
Zambias eneste uafhængige dagblad
Dulani with The Post
Zambia's only independent daily
Vi nød den betagende udsigt over Victoria Vandfaldet - Mosi-Oa-Tunya, "Røgen, der tordner" - selv om der ikke var særlig meget røg sammenlignet med sidst, jeg var der (hvor det næsten havde været for meget)
We enjoyed the breath-taking view of Victoria Falls - Mosi-Oa-Tunya, "The Smoke That Thunders" - although there was not very much smoke compared to the last time I was there (when it had almost been too much).
David Livingstone, missionær og opdagelsesrejsende,
var i 1855 den første europæer (Læs: hvide), der
så Victoria Vandfaldet (Mange historiebøger påstår,
at det var ham, der "opdagede" vandfaldet!). Det er ham, den
nærliggende by er opkaldt efter, og man har nu også rejst
en statue af ham ved vandfaldet. Journalisten og eventyreren Henry Stanley
drog under megen mediebevågenhed ud på en ekspedition for
at finde Livingstone, og da han omsider fandt ham, siges han at have
udtalt de senere så berømte ord "Dr Livingstone, formoder
jeg?" - selv om det vel ikke var ret svært at regne ud, omstændighederne
taget i betragtning.
Dr. Livingstone havde imidlertid intet ønske om at lade sig hjemføre
i triumftog af Stanley - han blev i Afrika. Efter hans død i
1873 begravede hans afrikanske ledsagere Susi og Chumi efter hans eget
ønske hans hjerte i det, der i dag er det nordlige Zambia, og
bar derefter hans balsamerede legeme den lange, farlige vej, næsten
2500 km, til Dar-es-Salaam i Tanzania. Herfra blev hans jordiske rester
sejlet til London for at blive stedt til hvile i Westminster Abbey.
Dr David Livingstone, missionary
and explorer, was the first European (i.e. white person) to see Victoria
Falls in 1855 (Many history books claim that he was the one who "discovered"
the Falls!). The nearby town has been named after Dr Livingstone and
now his statue has been erected overlooking the Falls. Henry Stanley,
journalist and adventurer, went on a much publicised expedition to find
Dr Livingstone. Having finally found him, he is said to have spoken
the now famous words, "Dr Livingstone, I presume?" - although
that was hardly very difficult to figure out, considering the circumstances.
Dr Livingstone, however, had no wish to be taken home in triumphal progress
by Stanley - he stayed in Africa. On his death in 1873 Susi and Chumi,
his African companions, buried his heart at his request in what is now
northern Zambia and then carried his embalmed body the long, dangerous
way, about 1500 miles, to Dar-es-Salaam in Tanzania. From here his remains
were sailed to London to be laid to rest in Westminster Abbey.
David Livingstone
-
den første hvide, der så Mosi-Oa-Tunya, "Røgen,
der tordner"
Dr David Livingstone -
the first white man to see Mosi-Oa-Tunya, The Smoke That Thunders
Nelia og Dulani foreviget under Dr Livingstones nyopstillede statue ved Victoria Vandfaldet
Nelia and Dulani photographed under Dr Livingstone's newly erected statue at Victoria Falls
Herover: De andre gange, jeg havde besøgt vandfaldet, havde været lige efter regnstiden (april-maj), og dette område havde været dækket af den brusende Zambezi-flod, lige før den styrtede ned i dybet til venstre i billedet. Nu havde det ikke regnet meget, selv om regntiden var startet for over to måneder siden.
Above: The other times I had visited the Falls, had been right after the rain season (April-May), this area had been covered by the roaring Zambezi River coming from the right and thundering over the edge. Now the rains had been scarce although the rain season started more than two months ago.
Mosi-o-Tunya-nationalpark: Nelia var nødt til at tage tilbage på arbejde, og Dulani og jeg tog på Dulanis første safari nogensinde. Desværre var jorden for våd, så elefanterne var gået over floden til Botswana. Alligevel blev det en stor oplevelse for Dulani - og for mig. Jeg bliver aldrig træt af at se på vilde dyr.
Mosi-o-Tunya National Park: Nelia had to go back to work and Dulani and I went on what was his first safari. Unfortunately the soil was too wet so the elephants had crossed the river to Botswana. Still it was a great experience for Dulani - and for me. I'll never grow tired of watching wild animals.
Dulani havde aldrig set de vilde dyr, der lever i hans land. Her er han foran de to sidste næsehorn i Zambia - sidst jeg så dem, var de tre. Oprindeligt importerede man fem, der blev mandsopdækket, men ulykker kunne vagterne desværre ikke beskytte dem mod. Bemærk træstammen, der lå som en bom og beskyttede os. Næsehorn kan ikke springe!
Dulani had never seen the wild animals living in his country. Here he is in front of the two last rhinos in Zambia - the last time I saw them they were three. Originally five rhinos were imported and guarded round the clock, but unfortunately the guards could not protect them from accidents. Note the tree trunk serving as a protective barrier. Rhinos cannot jump!
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