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PETAUKE BY - PETAUKE TOWNSHIP
Nyika Motel, der er kommunalt, dvs. ejet af Petauke District Council, ligger ikke langt fra Great East Road, der fører til Chipata og/eller Malawi. Man drejer til venstre ved BP-tankstationen 430 km fra Lusaka og kører ad asfaltvejen, der fører ind til Petauke by 5 km nordpå. Der er også andre steder i nærheden, hvor man kan overnatte, ligesom der også findes et par steder inde i Petauke, ingen af dem luksuriøse, men så vidt jeg ved OK.
Nyika Motel, which is owned by Petauke District Council, is located close to the turn-off by the BP filling station on Great East Road leading to Chipata and Malawi. You turn left and the motels tands on the tarmaq leading to Petauke Township 5 km to the north. There are also other places for accommodation nearby and a few in Petauke, none of them luxurious but, as far as I know, okay.
Til venstre, lige før man når Petaukes centrum ligger der et uformelt marked for de fattige, hvilket vil sige størsteparten af indbyggerne i Petauke District, hvor mere end 95% lever under fattigdomsgrænsen. Her handles der hovedsageligt med brugt tøj, sko og reservedele til cykler osv. Til venstre herunder ses jeg med Alice Tembo, min veninde fra Chitimba-området.
To the left just before the centre of Petauke there is an unofficial market for the poor, that is, the vast majority of the residents of Petauke District, where more than 95 % live below the poverty line. The main articles here are second-hand clothes, shoes and bicycle spares etc. Below left I pose together with my friend Alice Tembo from the Chitimba area.
Jeg har i øvrigt altid troet, at mit brugte tøj blev givet til de fattige! Men jeg har opdaget, at selv i Petauke, et af de fattigste steder i et af verdens fattigste lande, bliver brugt tøj solgt og aldrig foræret væk! Men man må da håbe, at indtægterne så bruges til de fattige (?)
By the way, I always thought my second-hand clothes were given to the needy. But I have found out that even in Petauke, one of the poorest places in one of the world's poorest countries, second-hand clothes are sold, never given out for free! But hopefully the money earned benefits the poor!!??
Ovenfor: Der handles ikke kun med brugt tøj, men også med billige reservedele til det næstmest brugte transport-middel efter fødderne, nemlig cyklen.
Above: Not just second-hand clothes are sold there. Cheap spare parts are also available for the most widespread means of transport second only to the feet: the bike.
Der er ikke mange (officielle) jobs i Petauke, så mange mennesker forsøger at tjene penge ved at sætte en bod op, hvorfra de sælger alskens ting.
There are not many (official) jobs in Petauke so many people try to earn a living by putting up a stand from which they sell all sorts of things.
Herover: Bag dette marked har Petauke et distriktsbibliotek (til venstre i bygningen), men pladsen er trang, og bøgerne få. Her kan borgere, der ikke har råd til aviser, imidlertid læse den daglige avis. Mens jeg var i Petauke, fik byen også to lokale radiostationer, Radio Explorer og Radio PASME. PASME Community Radio, der køres af frivillige og startede op med primitivt udstyr, startede op i bittesmå lokaler længst til højre i bygningen. De har i dag fået meget bedre lokaler og udstyr.
Above: Behind this market Petauke has a District Library (left), but the space is limited and the books are few. However, the daily newspaper is made available to citizens who cannot afford papers. While I was in Petauke, the township also got two local radio stations, Radio Explorer and Radio PASME. PASME Community Radio, run by volunteers and initially relying on primitive equipment, started in the far right end of the building on tiny premises. Today they have acquired much better premises and equipment.
Mens jeg var i Petauke, indsamlede min datter penge derhjemme, og vi fik sat biblioteket i stand. De har nu også fået ordentlige borde og stole (fra Handesskolen i Randers, min tidligere arbejdsplads), og computer og printer og elektrisk skrivemaskine står og venter på at komme i brug. Vi har også sendt brugte bøger og CD-rommer derned, og Randers Biblioteker har givet dem bl.a. bogreoler, så der er nu planer om at flytte biblioteket til et større lokale. Om der bliver råd til det, vil tiden vise
While I was based in Petauke, my daughter collected money back home so we had the library rehabilitated. Now they have got decent chairs and tables (from Randers Business College, my former place of work), and a computer, a printer and an electric typewriter are waiting to be put in use. We have sent second-hand books and CD roms to them and Randers Libraries have given them bookshelves etc so there are plans of moving the library to larger premises.Whether the money can be found, time will show.
"Hitch hiking" reporter:
In December 2005 a new bridge was washed away in the bush and volunteer
Lucas Mwale from Radio PASME, formerly teacher at Ray Community School,
grabbed the opportunity to get a lift in a Council vehicle and have some
interviews with locals. In the background two women, who had to turn back.
When I returned to Petauke in 2005, the Modern Bus Station planned had been erected, but unfortunately lack of money had caused a temporary suspension of the work (Districts always have few revenues in January-March - and Council employees had not been paid either - as usual at that time of the year!)
Bag den nye rutebilstationen findes der også et officielt marked med butikker i murstensbygninger, det såkaldte Nye Marked. Inde midt i er der et stort overdækket grøntsagsmarked
Behind the modern bus station there is also an official market with shops in brick houses, the so-called New Market. In the middle there is a big roofed vegetable market
På det nye marked kan man købe alverdens småting fra småbitte butikker, der ofte har fantasifulde og/eller charmerende navne.
In the new market all sorts of small things can be bought fromtiny shops, which often have imaginative and/or charming names.
Selve byen Petauke anslås at have omkring 15.000 indbyggere, men ingen ved det med sikkerhed. Hovedgaden - den eneste asfaltvej, hvis frygtelige "pothuller" omsider er blevet repareret - domineres midt i byen af indiske butikker med et smalt vareudvalg og varer til lave priser (Øverste billede ovenfor er fra juli 2004, nederste fra december 2005). For flertallet af indbyggere i Petauke District er priserne imidlertid ikke spor lave - for dem er det eneste lave kvaliteten. Der er ikke meget konkurrence, når køberne er fattige.
Petauke Township - the Boma (British Overseas Military Administration) - is believed to have 15,000 inhabitants, but nobody knows for sure. In the centre of town the main street - a tarmaq road whose horrible potholes have finally been repaired - is dominated by Indian shops with a very narrow range of articles at low prices (The upper picture is from July 2004 - the lower one from December 2005). But to the majority of people in the District prices are not low at all - just the quality..Competition is slack when buyers are poor..
Juni / June 2004
December 2005
Juni / June 2004
Herover, til venstre (2004) og nedenunder (2005) ses nogle af de indiske butikker på den anden side af hovedgaden. Vareudvalget er så lille, at man må i mange butikker, når man kommer med sin indkøbsliste. Og mange ting fås slet ikke i Petauke. Alle de vestlige/nordlige ting skal man hente i Lusaka - eller evt. Chipata, provinshovedstaden 175 km væk. Souvenirs sælges heller ikke, for i Petauke regner man ikke med, der kommer turister.
Left (2004) and below (2005) some of the Indian shops on the opposite side of the mainroad. The selection of articles is so narrow that you have to visit many shops if you bring a shopping list. And many items cannot be found in Petauke. All Western/Northern products must be bought in Lusaka - or Chipata, the capital of Eastern Province 175 km away. No souvenirs are available for in Petauke nobody expects any tourists.
December 2005
Herover og -under: Da jeg kom tilbage i december 2005, var mobiltelefonen kommet til Petauke - et ufatteligt fremskridt, der måske kan forbedre mulighederne for at få adgang til markeder (købere), dvs. skabe konkurrence!! - og teleselskaberne havde rundhåndet delt ud af maling, så hver anden butik nu er rød og gul.
Above and below: When in December 2005
I returned, the cell phone had reached Petauke - an incredicle advance
that may enhance the chances of access to markets (buyers), i. e. create
competition!! - and the tele companies had lavishly been handing out
paint so every other shop is red and yellow.
Top
20 Music Centre - I suppose centres don't come tinier than this. "Be
Zambian. Buy Original tapes. Stop piracy!" That sounds intriguing
but all tapes I bought in Petauke were counterfeit, including from this
shop. The real thing is too expensive for people so Zambia is full of
counterfeit products, which is positive in this context I guess, as low-quality
counterfeits are better than none.
Til venstre, når butiksrækkerne er ophørt, ligger Petauke District Council, der kaldes the Civic Centre (svarer nærmest til "rådhuset" eller "kommunen"). Det var her, jeg arbejdede.
On the
left after the rows of shops end, you will find the Civic Centre,
the premises of Petauke District Council. This
is where I worked.
Forår i november
Længere nede ad hovedgaden ligger distrikts-afdelingerne af de forskellige ministerier imellem småvirksomheder og -butikker, hospitalet og politi-stationen. Her et kig hen ad gaden en stille forårssøndag i begyndelsen af november.
Spring in November
Further down the main street the district departments of the various ministries, the so-called line ministries, mingle with small businesses and shops, the hospital and the police station. Here is a view of this part of the street on a quiet spring Sunday in early November .
PAMO kvalitetsmøbler
Der er næsten ingen forarbejdende virksomheder i Petauke. Men MS's tidligere partner gennem mange år, PAMO, er en slags teknisk skole, der bl.a. producerer nogle meget smukke møbler i mukwa-træ for at finansiere deres uddannelsesaktiviteter.
Desværre er der næsten intet marked for den slags i Petauke District, og som de fleste andre har PAMO intet køretøj, så de kan transportere deres møbler til et købedygtigt marked. De har dog i årenes løb uddannet mange dygtige møbelsnedkere, så man kan få kvalitets-møbler til meget billige penge i området (efter nordlig standard!). Men der er ikke mange købere til kvalitetsmøbler, for de færreste har råd.
PAMO High-quality Furniture
There are very few processing factories in Petauke. But PAMO, MS's former partner for many years, is a sort of trade school producing very beautiful furniture of mukwa wood in order to finance their training activities.
Unfortunately there is next to no market for high-quality furniture in Petauke District and like most others PAMO has no transport so they can get their furniture to up-market buyers. Over the years, however, they have trained many skilful cabinetmakers so high-quality furniture can be had at low prices in the area (according to northern standards!). However, buyers are not many because few can afford quality furniture
Selv om de kun udgør et mindretal, er der en del muslimer i Petauke, heriblandt (de fleste? af) inderne. Dette skilt hænger ved hovedgaden, hvor byen ebber ud, og viser vejen til Anusa Village, hvor høvdingen er (sort) muslim. Sakalas og Williams børn gik på den muslimske skole ved moskeen, selv om de er kristne.
På halvvejen ned ad jordvejen til Anusa Village et par kilometer væk boede jeg på en lille sidevej (Se JETTE!).
Even though they only constitute a minority, there are quite a few Muslims in Petauke, among them (most of?) the Indians. This sign is found by the main street where the township thins out and it leads to Anusa Village, whose headman is a (black) Muslim. Sakala's and William's children attended the Muslim school by the mosque although they are Christian.
Halfway down the dirt road to Anusa Village a couple of kilometres away, the house where I lived stands on a narrow branch road (See JETTE!).
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